Recently Reviewed

The Inlander Staff & r & & r & MADELEINE'S & r & & r & Madeleine's is somehow light and airy and cozy simultaneously, with periwinkle walls, sun-gold trim and picture windows that look out on a busy downtown street corner. The superbly balanced Doma espresso never misses a beat -- shots are pulled perfectly and the drinks are affordable. For lunch, the salad trio plate ($9) -- your choice of any three salads from the large case -- is not to be missed. The quiches ($5) rotate ingredients but are always blessed with a perfectly crisp and buttery crust. At dinner (served Thursday-Saturday), the appetizers and entr & eacute;es are basically French comfort food, and it's all affordable luxury. The cheese plate ($9) surprised us with its scope and size -- apples, cured meats, four or five cheeses, fig jam and bread. The Coq au Vin Blanc ($15) entr & eacute;e featured perfectly deboned chicken on a luscious mound of mashed potatoes with a gravy-like wine sauce that held up well against the rustic mashed potatoes. The Steak au Poivre ($15) -- steak filets on skewers atop a mound of frites -- was accompanied by an intensely rich gravy that highlighted the lean but flavorful beef. Each entr & eacute;e came with a proper little side salad of organic garden greens, lightly dressed. Try the moist carrot cake, the buttery chocolate croissant or the tiny, not-super-sweet espresso cookies. With food like this, who needs Paris? 707 W. Main Ave., 624-2253 (SN)





MOJO


Mojo appeals with its innovative format, comfort-oriented foods and gourmet-inspired flavors at less-than-gourmet prices. At the greeting station, choose from standard selections or create your own meal (salad, sandwich or entr & eacute;e) from a menu described as "gourmet fast casual." The cheesy chicken apple sandwich ($8/half, $11/whole), served on fresh sourdough (baked in-house), was a perfect blend of tangy, crispy, savory and sweet: moist grilled chicken, applewood-smoked bacon, creamy havarti, crisp Red Delicious apple slices, and a topper of caramelized onion, a few greens and honey-mustard spread. The "adult" mac 'n' cheese side was decadent penne in a cheese sauce. Our food arrived quickly and beautifully prepared. 328 N. Sullivan Rd., Spokane Valley, 893-8900 (CS)





ANGELO'S RISTORANTE


The dim interior at Angelo's is decked in nostalgic Italiana and religious iconography, and the menu features handcrafted foods, mostly organic. Starters like calamari saltate, antipasto misto and grilled eggplant parcels with goat cheese, basil, tomato and pine nuts in a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette sounded delicious. The chicken milano alla griglia ($21) was beautifully plated, topped with capers and diced tomato, and accompanied by fresh green beans and a little fried mashed potato cake. The half order of the grilled polenta cake salad, with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette and a lump of creamy goat cheese was filling and yummy for $7 more. Cr & egrave;me br & ucirc;l & eacute;e and tiramisu, made on the premises, were both rich and creamy and not too sweet. 846 N. 4th St., Coeur d'Alene, (208) 765-2850 (LM)





NOSWORTHY'S


The glossy laminated menu warns, "VERY, VERY LARGE PORTIONS!" above the breakfast listings, and it's truth in advertising. The Breakfast Special ($5.45), one of the smaller combos -- two pancakes, two slices of bacon and two eggs -- sounds manageable, but these cakes are substantial, the size of hubcaps, made with a rich eggy batter. The fancy hashbrowns ($3.50), topped with smoky bacon, tangy cheddar and colorful green onion, are a delight. The Blitz omelet ($8.75) fills three eggs with German sausage, mushrooms, tomato and processed cheese, all topped with avocado and sour cream. Nosworthy's doesn't take plastic, so be prepared to pay cash for all that food. 4045 N. Government Way, Coeur d'Alene, (208) 664-6161 (AC)