In grad school, I spent some time in Omaha, Nebraska. On the nights we were able to take a break, we took turns introducing one another to cool new spots where we could have a drink and unwind. One night, a classmate inquired, "Have you guys gone down the rabbit hole?"
Intrigued, we asked for more details and were quickly secreted away to the coolest spot in Old Town Omaha. A secret code whispered to the clerk gained us access behind a bookcase and into a dark, velvety room that warmed us with Prohibition-era drinks and lamplight. When I recently told Spo-pals about the Wicked Rabbit, they said, "Oh, so you must love Cease & Desist downtown."
I hadn't yet been, however, so I knew I needed to go in search of the coolest speakeasy-style bars in town. These five modern takes on the Prohibition era's illicit drinkeries offer something for everyone — even nondrinkers — and every occasion, stretching from Airway Heights to downtown to the Garland District.
CEASE & DESIST BOOK CLUB
108 N. Washington St., ceaseanddesistbookclub.com
Open daily 4 pm-midnight
Of course, the first speakeasy I visited on my quest had to be Cease & Desist. This is the hidden-entrance-behind-bookshelf experience I was promised. From the street, there's no hint of what lies within. The dimly lit bar is warm with hints of art deco motifs all around. Our bartender, Zac, was slinging drinks on a slow Monday, and was knowledgeable and friendly. Behind him on a brick wall lined with well-lit glass shelves are dozens of bottles of liquor. It's a sight to see, and if you like liquor, there are countless choices. Swanky.
Zac made us three drinks. The first, called Not My Fault ($12), is a bright, aromatic mouthful of citrus, peach and basil. This sparkling drink could cause a problem — it's so inoffensive and smooth, you forget you're drinking alcohol. Our second drink, Forage This ($11), made with gin, Amaro Montenegro, grapefruit liqueur and lemon, is earthy, herbal, sweet, spicy and a tiny bit sour. I can say for sure that Amaro Montenegro will be finding its way to my private liquor cabinet ASAP. Last, we tried the smoked old fashioned ($14). The smoke hits you on the nose, then lingers at the back of your mouth. This is a full-mouth feel of oaky warmth from the barrel-aged whiskey and a sweet, zippy tang from the fresh citrus. If you haven't experienced a smoked drink, it's a fun and delicious experience at Cease & Desist.
DURKIN'S LIQUOR BAR
415 W. Main Ave., durkinsliquorbar.com
Open Tue-Thu 4 pm-11 pm; Fri-Sat 4 pm-midnight
Durkin's is perhaps Spokane's best-known neo-speakeasy, located in the same place where the local liquor tycoon Jimmie Durkin ran one of his three stores until Prohibition in Washington state began in 1915. It's tragically cool, hidden beneath the main floor restaurant, reflecting the old-school secrecy and woody warmth of those basement speakeasies of the past.
We made it out on Whiskey Wednesday, so our bartender, Susannah, made us a classic old fashioned ($13) with Woodford Reserve. Its nose was bright from the fresh-peeled orange and oaky from the bourbon. It went down smooth, and slightly warm from the bourbon. We also tried the coffee Boulevardier ($10) made with coffee-infused sweet vermouth, bourbon and Campari. The coffee evened out the bitterness of the Campari, leaving a sweet, earthy, warm flavor and an aromatic aftertaste. Lastly, we tried the Scofflaw ($11). This drink was a surprise! Rye whiskey is blended with dry vermouth, homemade grenadine (made with pomegranate), fresh lemon and orange bitters. If you aren't used to whiskey and like a slightly sweet drink, try this. The flavor built the longer it sat. It was so fruity, sweet, warm, flavorful and full-bodied. I'm going back again and again for this drink and the atmosphere.
ITTY BITTY BUDDHA
713 W. Garland Ave., littlenoodlespokane.com
Open Tue-Sun noon-close
This tiki-bar inspired speakeasy is accessed via an alley entrance behind Little Noodle restaurant on Garland. This place is hip. The small seating area is highlighted by a cozy velvet couch, tiki tables and pendant fixtures over red lightbulbs hanging above the bar. Little Buddhas are everywhere, smiling with arms raised in celebration. Faux grass meets a funky hand-painted mural on the walls, and a cool teal shade coats the rest of the room. Owner Kadra Evans is a delight, welcoming and kind.
On Tuesdays, guest bartenders take over Itty Bitty Buddha's liquor cabinet, making a special tiki cocktail and donating all tips to a local charity. The night I visited, our guest bartender made a Zombie ($10), a delicious and naughty drink boasting three types of rum, pineapple, pomegranate, lime and an ice cube full of frozen cranberries. I also tried the mushroom coffee volcano ($14), a coconutty cocktail made with local cold brew, coconut tequila, lion's mane mushroom tincture, and topped with toasted coconut and a cinnamon stick, which is set on fire. It was like nothing I'd had before — warm and cool at the same time; sweet, creamy and earthy. Itty Bitty Buddha is a fun neighborhood haunt. I was surrounded by the loveliest people who welcomed me with lighthearted conversation and sweet realizations of how small Spokane really is.
HIGHBALL
100 N. Hayford Rd., northernquest.com
Open Fri-Sat 6 pm-close; Sun 11 am-3 pm (brunch), Wed-Thu 5 pm-close
100 N. Hayford Rd., northernquest.com
Open Fri-Sat 6 pm-close; Sun 11 am-3 pm (brunch), Wed-Thu 5 pm-close
Nestled inside Northern Quest Resort & Casino is a new (as of last fall) luxury lounge called Highball. Touted as a speakeasy, it may be a little difficult to locate in the casino. But when you do, you'll see it's very different from the rest of the modern speakeasies I visited. There are crystal chandeliers everywhere. This large, open room is full of tables, cozy booths, and high-top chairs surrounding the bar at the center. A sizable stage often welcomes various bands and performing artists, including drag queens for the "Don't Tell Mama Cabaret" held every other Sunday.
Of all the speakeasies I visited, Highball offers the most compact drink menu. We tried the New York whiskey sour and the French Chandelier ($12 each). The whiskey sour tasted how I'd think a Prohibition-era drink would taste — like, if antique had a taste, this is it. The red wine float changed everything about the whiskey sour; it's not at all what you expect but is a pleasant surprise. The French Chandelier is shimmering Chambord champagne (say that three times), sparkling with notes of raspberry, and the whole thing swirls glitter when you move it.
REVIVAL TEA COMPANY
415 W. Main Ave., Suite 100, revivalteacompany.com
Open daily 9 am-6 pm
Slightly different from all the rest is Revival Tea Company. Like Durkin's next door, it asks visitors to enjoy the experience downstairs, below its street-level store. It smells insanely good down there. The ceiling is lined with wooden beams, the shelves behind the counter full of glass and silver tea containers. Tea can be bought in bulk, to drink or take home, or enjoyed on site hot or cold. Revival is perfect for teetotalers and tea-totalers alike. We tried two tea mocktails ($7 each); the Earl Grey old fashioned and the hibiscus Cosmopolitan. It was hard to believe these weren't the real thing.
The Earl Grey, naturally, features tea poured over ice accented with a nonalcoholic bourbon extract, simple syrup, bitters and orange peel. It was so good; dark, warm and slightly smokey like the "real thing" yet flirting with the sweet smells of Earl Grey. The Hibiscus Cosmo is made with a wild berry hibiscus tea, simple syrup, fresh orange zest and tonic water, then poured into a coupe glass with a star anise float. It was delicious; super fruity with bright, sweet notes from the orange and anise. Each came with a near-full shaker to continue sipping as we chatted away. I hope you join us in begging them to stay open after 6 pm so we can grade papers, study and meet with friends in this comfortable and aromatic environment. ♦
