The Historic Davenport Hotel continues its founder's legacy with a new cafe and bar

click to enlarge The Historic Davenport Hotel continues its founder's legacy with a new cafe and bar
Young Kwak photo
Gather 'round the new Lobby Bar in the Historic Davenport Hotel to sip on some classic cocktails.

You might do a double take next time you walk through the Historic Davenport Hotel's revolving door.

Yes, its Spanish-European architecture still remains, with Caen stone pillars, ornate wall details, a wrap-around mezzanine, glass ceiling, and central fountain with swathes of gold, maroon, and turquoise accents.

Gone, however, are the plethora of aimless sitting areas, replaced with the lively circular Lobby Bar leading to The Emporium cafe. To visitors and Spokanites alike, the updates are seamless. You might even find yourself questioning, "Hasn't it always been this way?"

The historic hotel's management took great care updating its first-floor lobby, which is often called "Spokane's living room" due to its communal space and welcoming atmosphere. One of the guiding questions throughout the design process, according to Melissa Green, vice president and area managing director of Davenport Hotels, was how to revitalize the space in a way that suits its moniker.

"The physical renovation started early in June," Green says, however the design process took a year. The hotel publicly unveiled the two additions on Sept. 20, coinciding with its 110th anniversary.

"The designers and the teams really wanted to make sure that the historical integrity stayed intact with the Davenport," she says.

Louis Davenport opened the Davenport Hotel in 1914, during the tail end of American railroads' construction boom. The hotel built upon Louis Davenport's achievements as the owner of a successful restaurant, Davenport's Waffle Foundry, and carved out a slice of elegance in the heart of the city amid the hustle and bustle of industrialization. Eventually, the hotel earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975 and on Spokane's historic properties register in 1995.

Even so, the hotel's history has been fairly tumultuous. Louis Davenport's retirement in 1945 at age 77 led to a succession of owners over the years. It went from one of the most high-end and innovative hotels in the United States for much of the 20th century — the first in the country to have central air conditioning — to the verge of demolition after closing in 1985. Local couple Walt and Karen Worthy bought the hotel in 2000 and restored its splendor and prestige, reopening the Davenport in 2002.

The Worthys retired in 2021 and sold the Historic Davenport and its sister properties, the Davenport Tower, Davenport Grand, Davenport Lusso and The Centennial, to KSL Capital Partners. The hotel is currently operated by Davidson Hospitality Group and affiliated with Marriott as a part of its Autograph Collection Hotels chain.

click to enlarge The Historic Davenport Hotel continues its founder's legacy with a new cafe and bar
Young Kwak photo
Find classic cocktails at the new Lobby Bar, which features historic decor elements for a seamless fit with the 1914 hotel.

Various historic fixtures and details on the hotel's first floor remain unchanged despite the introduction of the bar and the cafe. The marble Italian fountain still occupies the center of the first floor, an always-burning gas fireplace remains inside the Palm Court Grill, and sprinkled throughout the revamped spaces are other nods to the past.

The new Lobby Bar is anchored to two spiral-shaped columns topped with antique lights, original to the building in 1914. Those with a keen eye might also notice how the bulbous lights framing the bar's center match the portico on the outside of the hotel. The most notable design feature is its circular shape, which unintentionally followed its founder's vision.

After posting a final design rendering of the bar online, Melville Holmes, who knew Louis Davenport, commented on how the circular bar was in the hotel founder's vision.

"We invited [Holmes] to the grand opening because we wanted to learn more about it, and he said that he had spoken to Louis and that this was always his vision to create a circular bar ... so that his friends and everyone could meet around the bar," Green says.

The new bar does face some competition from the hotel's famous Peacock Room Lounge and the Palm Court Grill, which both offer a more sophisticated sit-down experience.

"You don't want to offer too much, but we also want to differ options for all of our guests because our guests all have different wants and needs," Green says.

Whereas the Peacock Room takes more creative liberties with its cocktails, the Lobby Bar's focus is the classics.

"We have shareable plates, light options, snack options here at the Lobby Bar with classic cocktails that were available in the 1910s and 1920s. So, classic martinis, French 75, classic Manhattans that are executed flawlessly," says Green, who notes that the French 75 ($17) is a personal favorite.

If patrons don't want to commit to a full-size entrée, the Lobby Bar's small plates offer a broad sampling of the Davenport's cuisine. From oysters Rockefeller ($18) to warm Castelvetrano olives ($8) and a classic shrimp cocktail ($24), there are finger foods galore to enjoy while sipping a beverage of choice. The entire menu sends guests back in time with its offerings emulating the Prohibition era.

click to enlarge The Historic Davenport Hotel continues its founder's legacy with a new cafe and bar
Young Kwak photo
The Emporium serves pastries, snacks, cafe fare and the Davenport's famous peanut brittle.

Follow the green marble lines on the lobby floor, and you'll find your way to The Emporium. The cafe is markedly brighter with large windows facing Sprague Avenue and white tile floors, but the modern touches are balanced with antiquity.

"When you walk directly into The Emporium through the walkway, the main table is actually an antique table from over 150 years ago," says Green, adding how the chandeliers in the cafe's retail area are replicas of those in the hotel's Isabella Ballroom.

Convenience and variety are key to how the cafe distinguishes itself from the other food options at The Historic Davenport Hotel, according to Green. The Emporium lives up to its namesake, displaying confectionery snacks and beverages along marble counters for the busy traveler who needs something quick to grab and go.

click to enlarge The Historic Davenport Hotel continues its founder's legacy with a new cafe and bar
Young Kwak photo

For those who may forgo peanut brittle for fear of racking up a dental bill, you should give Davenport's famous recipe a try.

"Our peanut brittle is unlike anyone else's," Green says. "It's soft."

For this, you can thank Sophia Gerkensmeyer, who worked as a chocolate dipper in the hotel's confectionery kitchen from 1929 to 1940. She allegedly made a softer version for a regular consumer with dentures, experimenting with large marble slabs to pull and perfect her recipe on.

Marble is the standout design choice in The Emporium, but does not lose warmth with tasteful green and gold accents and rich mahogany wood. A particularly large white marble slab rests behind the counter in the kitchen area, where customers can watch demonstrations of the peanut brittle-making process, and also have the opportunity to taste some themselves.

If you can't get enough of this sweet, try it in another form, like with The Emporium's signature peanut brittle latte ($5.70-$6.50) or peanut brittle "Snickers" tarts ($6.50). The Emporium also pays local homage in its baked goods and beverages with a huckleberry twist, like the huckleberry latte ($5.45-$6.45) and huckleberry cinnamon roll ($6.50).

THE HISTORIC DAVENPORT HOTEL
The Emporium: Open Sun-Thu 5 am-5 pm; Fri-Sat 5 am-8 pm
Lobby Bar: Open Sun-Thu 3-10 pm; Fri-Sat 11 am-11 pm
10 S. Post St., 509-455-8888davenporthotelcollection.com

If you're looking for a heartier, savory meal, the cafe also has prewrapped sandwiches and wraps. Don't let the to-go packaging deceive you, as these options taste as fresh as if they were just made. No soggy bread in sight with their turkey club ($14).

Noted on the Davenport's menus and informational pamphlets, Louis Davenport's message still rings true 110 years later: "We wish you are so well pleased with your visit here that you will be glad you came, sorry to leave and eager to return." ♦

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Dora Scott

Dora Scott is a staff writer at the Inlander covering primarily food. She joined the team in 2024 after moving to Spokane from her hometown in Nevada County, CA, where she worked at The Union newspaper.