From the moment you step in the door at Candle in the Woods, you're made to feel right at home as someone hands you a drink — in my case, sommelier Noelle Loparco holds out a glass of sangria — and tells you to go mingle with the other guests "out back."
The restaurant originally started in a bed-and-breakfast owned by chef David Adlard and his wife, Lisa, near Athol, Idaho. So when they renovated and opened a more formal version of the restaurant in town in 2019, they wanted to keep that spirit alive.
As guests explore the venue, it's hard not to feel like you're at a relative's place. A game room upstairs has a pool table and small hangout space, while the dining room on the ground floor centers on a long table, with perhaps a few more wine racks along the walls than most would be lucky enough to have at home. "Out back" feels like a suburban backyard, with fenced privacy, sun shades, cornhole boards and cozy seating around gas fireplaces.
With only about 20 guests served each day, you'll soon find that Adlard wants everyone to get comfortable with one another from the start. Throughout the evening, these are the people you'll share drinks, amazing bites of food, and conversation with, so the happy hour before the meal offers the chance to say hello. There's little room to hide in a corner as you're encouraged to embrace the family-style meal of a lifetime, which will include breaks for games, socializing and maybe even sing-along songs around the fire.
Adlard's crass humor throughout the evening seals the vibe of hanging out at your foodie uncle's house. But unlike the potluck or barbecue you might normally get at family gatherings, the gourmet chef's table meal of 15 (or more) courses is a chance to splurge for an extra special occasion. Current pricing is $169 per person, with reservations booked through at least March 2023.
"We have people booking hotel reservations in Coeur d'Alene after they get reservations with us," Adlard says.
On a recent Thursday night, the crowd of 21 is almost entirely newcomers, but a few are back for a repeat visit. Adlard explains that any returning guests are affectionately called "cousins," a term that harks back to when the once home-based restaurant was only able to serve friends and family.
"You wouldn't believe how many cousins we had come to visit us," Adlard tells guests with a laugh.
As the sangria glasses start to empty, servers bring the first small bite to diners outside, a small potato with a creamy filling topped with caviar.
Then the dinner bell rings, signaling everyone to head inside and find their name card at their chair. Most of the guests sit at the long table in the middle of the room, but there are also a few small tables for couples. The focus throughout the night is drawn to the head of the long table, where chef Adlard and his staff explain each of the courses. Thoughtful pairings of white and red wines come with each bite, and guests can note any bottles they may want to buy on their way out.
Staff come around to stir up edible glitter in the champagne flutes waiting in front of each guest, and everyone joins in a toast before diving into the next course, which is encouraged to be devoured as finger food. A delectable combination of asparagus, savory goat cheese, crispy prosciutto and sweet berry sauce is paired with one of the restaurant's most popular recurring dishes: a thin rectangular s'more with the surprise filling of thinly sliced steak.
As the evening goes on, Adlard tells stories about how he went from decades of serving in the military and teaching gymnastics to jumping on this crazy idea to open a restaurant despite having no formal culinary training.
"We have some things that are on our menu every time," Adlard tells me as he explains how the menus differ each day. "But they're categories, so it changes every time."
While you can probably expect a ravioli, for example, the filling and sauce may be wildly different from the day before.
As he shares stories, servers bring out tuna tartare on frozen salt blocks, and a Monte Cristo sandwich that guests are encouraged to drench in ancho maple syrup. Everyone gets to reveal one dish together as they simultaneously lift a glass dome to release clouds of fragrant smoke (taking video of the experience is also encouraged) and find scallops in a phyllo dough cup.
Throughout the meal, more whimsical food tricks are in store, as Adlard calls for help making tableside ice cream through the magic of liquid nitrogen and guests get to pick a bite from a "smoking" serving dish.
The chef teases people not to try to "save room" through the night, as each course, whether licked from your fingers, slurped from the bowl, or enjoyed with cutlery, is meant to be fully enjoyed and not overwhelm anyone by the end of the three- to four-hour stay.
In keeping with the approachable, family-style mood, at the end of the night Adlard likes to wrap up by passing a wine bottle that serves as a talking stick as each guest says a little bit about their favorite course. Melt-in-your mouth sous vide steak in garlic butter is a popular vote-getter on this visit, but so is the special created by one of Adlard's culinary team, Casey Brandel, who grew heirloom tomatoes in his own garden over the summer and transformed them into a complex sauce for a salmon course.
Renowned critics have rated the restaurant among their top experiences, and Adlard says one told him why: At some of the most expensive Michelin-starred restaurants, where a single diner may pay $1,000, it's just, well, food. But at Candle in the Woods, it's fun. ♦
