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Jovial and attentive, Grandma Jai serves the usual palette of Thai fare, from ginger rice to pad thai ($10). Spice-ophiles will be glad to know that, in addition to choosing the heat level of the dish, dinner is accompanied by three condiment jars with tiny spoons: dried Thai chili flakes, pickled Thai chilies and Thai chilies pounded into a paste with fish sauce. (February 2012)

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