From Chopsticks to Forks

The Fork opens in Coeur d'Alene with an eclectic vision

From Chopsticks to Forks
Carrie Scozzaro
The seafood gumbo at the Fork in Coeur d'Alene is garnished with a little crawfish.

The spot where you'll find new Coeur d'Alene restaurant the Fork used to be a place called Lemongrass, which served Vietnamese and pan-Asian cuisine. Before Lemongrass, the lakeside locale was Takara's Japanese restaurant.

While you could bring your own chopsticks, a fork is more appropriate for the salads, sandwiches and entrées served up by this joint effort from chef Will Scott and his ex-wife Monica. The Fork offers an eclectic array of ethnic dishes — Cajun, Greek, Italian, Asian — whose common core lies in fresh, seasonal ingredients and fine-dining detail. For example, appetizers include curried crab dip with artichoke and grilled Asiago bread ($8) and spicy tuna sashimi with sticky rice and a soy reduction ($10).

The shrimp salad includes spinach, mandarin orange and blackened prawns ($7/$10), while the deconstructed seafood Cobb is a twist on an old classic: chilled scallops, smoked salmon, seared ahi and a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette ($11/$14).

On the sunny day we visited — warm enough that floor-to-ceiling slider windows were open to a pleasant breeze — my dining companions were lured by sandwiches. The chicken Brie club with arugula and chipotle mayo is served on house-baked focaccia ($10), while the Black & Blue OX pairs American Kobe beef with Gorgonzola, peppered bacon, fried onions and mushrooms on a housemade potato bun ($12). My gumbo with spicy andouille sausage included a cute little crawfish atop a pillow of fragrant rice ($6/$8).

Dinner is where Scott — formerly of Hay J's Bistro and the Oval Office — really shines, with nearly a dozen entrées ranging from herb-encrusted lamb and ratatouille ($28) to grilled yellowtail snapper, prawns and scallops ($24) and a hand-cut 12-ounce rib eye with grilled asparagus ($26).

Desserts are made fresh daily and frequent specials include the "soup of the moment." With a reasonable wine and beer list, live music Wednesday and Thursday evenings and a primo downtown location, the Fork has a good handle on what it takes to draw people in. ♦

The Fork • 309 E. Lakeside Ave., Coeur D'Alene • Open Mon, 4:30-9 pm; Tue-Thu, 11 am-3 pm and 4:30-9 pm; Fri-Sat, 11 am-3 pm and 4:30-10 pm • facebook.com/forklakeside • (208) 292-4392