It's an unfortunate trend in many restaurants serving sushi to obfuscate the delicate flavor of fish with bait-and-switch substances: overly sweet sauces, thick slabs of cloying cream cheese, taste bud-deadening dollops of spicy mayo.
In small amounts, it's possible that a bit of extra spice or sweetness can complement the complex flavors of fish, but the real star in a sushi roll is — or should be — the fish.
Jae "Jay" Oh, who opened Sushi Blossom on Spokane's lower South Hill in March 2021 would seem to agree.
One of its signature rolls is the Sushi Blossom with an interior of salmon and avocado, topped with more salmon, tuna, yellowtail, super white tuna (aka escolar) and snapper ($17).
It is, reports Oh, "devoid of any sauce that would detract from the flavors of the raw fish that makes up the tradition and quality of sushi."
The Sushi Blossom is one of several such seafood-forward rolls on the menu, which boasts 45 sushi rolls ($9-$17) catering to a wide range of tastes. The Sea-hawks roll ($16) is refreshingly bright, with yellowtail, scallion, avocado and a scant drizzle of citrus-y ponzu sauce.
The Cherry Blossom ($17) satisfies the craving for fried food with tempura shrimp, salmon and cucumber topped with seared salmon, tobiko and yellow onion with spicy mayo. And for those who enjoy a spicy sushi schmear, the Philadelphia roll ($14) pairs salmon and cream cheese for a riff on the typical bagel.
The nigiri and sashimi offering is extensive, ranging from roe, scallop, squid and yellowtail to daily specials like bluefin tuna ($5-$10). Sushi chef Cody Murinko serves both sushi and sashimi several ways: donburi style, over rice and in combination platters.
Sushi Blossom's menu also includes grilled entrees like the ubiquitous chicken teriyaki ($14), yakisoba noodle dishes ($13-$15) and udon soup ($13-$15). If you've never tried hamachi kama, the tender area around the fish's collar, put that on your list ($14).
The appetizer and sake offering should make this South Hill spot a standout for friendly gatherings, especially in warmer weather when the patio opens. Share panko-fried salmon with eel sauce ($12), poke salad ($14) or pot stickers ($6.95). Choose from both standard and unfiltered sake (nigori), which tends to be sweeter and is a delightful way to end a meal, similar to having a glass of port.
Another sweet treat is taiyaki ($6), which Oh explains is a Japanese street food made from waffle batter, typically filled with sweet red bean paste. Sushi Blossom's version, he says, "has a fish shape to it with a waffle on the outside, and an ice cream filling of various flavors."
One final draw to Sushi Blossom is the vibe inside the former Ginger Asian Bistro spot. The décor features more black accents in walls, shelving and a see-through room divider, punches of pink floral arrangements, drop-down lighting and an elevated seating area in one section of the restaurant so that you're sitting above the traffic flying up and down Grand Boulevard.
That fits perfectly with Oh's goals for an uplifting dining experience.
"We hope to help elevate Spokane's growing culinary field and be a benchmark for quality food and intimate dining." ♦
Sushi Blossom • 1228 S. Grand Blvd. • Open Tue- Fri 11 am-9 pm, Sat-Sun 12-9 pm • facebook.com/ sushiblossomspokane • 509-315-4973
